Lugu Lake Travel Guide 泸沽湖 (China)

Lugu Lake 泸沽湖, Yunnan/Sichuan Province, China

Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) is a breathtaking alpine lake located in a mountainous region on the border of China’s Yunnan (云南) and Sichuan (四川) province. With an elevation of approximately 2690 metres, Lugu Lake is the highest lake in Yunnan and is surrounded by dramatic mountains. Due to its remoteness, foreign visitors seldom get to explore this part of Yunnan/Sichuan. However, domestic travellers in the region had long known Lugu Lake’s beauty. Many making the long and arduous drive to witness its spectacular beauty. In this Lugu Lake Travel Guide, we’ll share with you the most scenic spots of the lake. Plus the travel info and tips that we’ve picked up during our visit there in autumn of 2017.

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VLOG of our Nov-2017 Lugu Lake trip

Panoramic view of the Lake — Panoramic view of the Lugu Lake

Lugu Lake Travel Guide (泸沽湖)

This Lugu Lake Travel Guide is based on our 3-days visit in Nov-2017. We rented a car in Chengdu (Sichuan) and drove 700km (slightly more than a day) to Lugu Lake. After exploring the lake, we drove (see time-lapse video) to Lijiang (Yunnan). And finally ending our trip by looping back to Chengdu with 2200km under our belt.

Lugu Lake Intro

Located on the provincial border of Yunnan/Sichuan, Lugu Lake is administratively 1/3 under Yunnan and 2/3 under Sichuan province. Interestingly, if one is observant enough, the sibling rivalry between the two (in claiming Lugu Lake as its own) can be seen in certain instances.

Mountains fence Lugu Lake on all sides. Most prominent of which is Mount Goddess Gemu (3754m) off its northern shore. Lugu Lake has five islands. And attained its famed beauty from the numerous breathtaking peninsulas, bays and beaches that ringed it. The maximum depth of the lake is 93m, with an average of 40m.

Mount Goddess Gemu (3754m) on the northern shore of the lake

Home of the Mosuo Tribe

Lugu Lake is home to the Mosuo Tribe (摩梭). A small ethnic group of around 40,000, the Mosuo people had resided in this mountainous region between Yunnan/Sichuan for generations.

The Mosuo Tribe is widely recognized as the last matriarchal society in the world. Thus earning them (and Lugu Lake) references such as “The Kingdom of Women” (女儿国) and “Home of the Matriarchal Tribe”.

Being matriarchal, the Mosuo society and families are headed by women. The women have absolute ownership of family properties and their children. The family lineage is also continued via the female line.

Walking Marriage

The most unique aspect of the Mosuo culture is their practice of “walking marriage”.

In a walking marriage, couples do not get into a formal marriage or relationship. Rather, the women have the rights to select and change their partners. During the day, the women and their partners would stay with their respective (maternal) families. During the night, the women would give permission for the partner to visit and stay till sunrise.

As such, both sides officially belong to separate households. And have no formal relationships nor shared properties. Children born from a walking marriage are raised by the women and carry the mother family name.

Visiting Marriage Bridge. A popular dating spot for Mosuo people.

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Visitor centre on the eastern entrance (Sichuan entrance)

Accessing Lugu Lake

The mountainous nature of the region makes access to Lugu Lake difficult. It was not until 1982 that the lake was served by proper roads. Since then, tourism had taken a boom in the area. And the region’s infrastructure, including its road network and tourism related services had improved greatly. (As a side note, we’re sad to feedback that the general cleanliness of the public toilets in the area still have major rooms for improvement.)

Lugu Lake Travel Guide 泸沽湖 — Eastern entrance to the lake (Sichuan entrance)

Entry points to Lugu Lake

There are two main routes (entry points) to Lugu Lake, one in the east and the other in the south.

The eastern entrance is under the jurisdiction of Sichuan province, and links directly to the city of Xichang (248km). The southern entrance is under the care of Yunnan province and is 220km from the nearest Yunnan city of Lijiang. Both entrances (provinces) have their respective visitor centre and ticketing booths. Visitors are required to purchase tickets before entry into Lugu Lake.

Lugu Lake entry fees: RMB 100/50 (Adult/Child). Per entry with no restriction on duration of stay.

(Refer to the end of this blog for information on how to get to Lugu Lake from Lijiang/Xichang.)

Driving around Lugu Lake

There is a road running along the shoreline of Lugu Lake, except for some parts in its eastern section. This scenic drive looping Lugu Lake is 50km long. And much of it is tagged under the provincial highway number S307.

Without doubt, the best and most convenient way to explore Lugu Lake is via self-driving. And it is usually possible to explore the entire lake (in relative detail) in around 2-3 days.

Having said, it is not commonly possible for foreigners to drive in China. Because the Chinese government does not recognize foreign driving licenses. To know more about the complex procedure of how foreigners can get a driving license in China, refer to our other blog.

For those whom are not able to drive in China, the next best alternative would be to hire a car with driver to explore the lake. As usual, accommodation receptions are usually able to provide their guest with the relevant contacts for such services.

Best time to visit Lugu Lake

Lugu Lake’s beauty can be appreciated year-round, with each season offering its unique sights and characteristics. However, it is best to avoid the rainy season which extends from June to August. The optimal period is usually spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Its autumn views are especially stunning, with golden leaves set against the backdrop of an expansive lake.

Scenic spots around Lugu Lake

In this section, we have organized Lugu Lake into different areas of interest (marked A to J as listed below). The areas are sequenced counter-clockwise around the lake, same as the manner in which we explored Lugu Lake during our trip. All the scenic spots are tagged (in the same sequence) in our Google Map below.

Each of the areas will be illustrated via the relevant photographs we had taken at the location. Thus, you can decide which are the scenic spots that you wouldn’t want to miss on your trip!

Note: Google road maps of China has some misalignment. If one looks at the satellite images overlaid with road maps, the misalignment between the two can be seen. Always base your navigation on the satellite images (i.e. use satellite image as reference) instead of the road map. This problem is common knowledge and is due to Chinese government security restrictions.

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Area A

#A1: Lamasery 喇嘛寺

Famous monastery in Lugu Lake.

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#A2: Visiting Marriage Bridge 走婚桥

This is a popular dating spot for Mosuo people, thus its name. There is a small jetty near bridge that offer boat tours of Caohai.

Small jetty at Visiting Marriage Bridge. Boat tours of Caohai are available here.

#A2: Visiting Marriage Bridge entrance 走婚桥

#A3: Visiting Marriage Bridge Viewing Point

This viewing point is located at the top of a small hill at the southern end of the bridge. Simply walk to the southern end of the bridge and cross the road. From here, there is a flight of stairs leading up to the viewing point. The climb up is short and easy. However, the view at the top is excellent. Surely the best viewpoint to photograph the bridge and Caohai.

#A3: Visiting Marriage Bridge Viewing Point (facing Caohai)

#A4: Caohai 草海

Caohai translate into “sea of grass”. It refers to the enormous patch of submerged lake weeds on the eastern section of Lugu Lake. The Visiting Marriage Bridge was built to span this area of submerged lake weeds.

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Area B

#B1: Luowa Peninsula 洛洼半岛

Located at the end of the road from Lamasery and Visiting Marriage Bridge. Luowa Pier is located here and offers boat trips to the nearby islands and bays. There is a trail from here to Goddess Bay (Area#C).

#B2: Luowa Peninsula hiking trail

Trail to Goddess Bay.

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Area C/D

#C: Goddess Bay 女神湾

Commonly thought to be the best sunset viewing point in Lugu Lake. Parking is limited.

#D1: Aokua Pier 洼夸码头

Aokua Pier 洼夸码头, Area#D1

#D1: Aokua Pier 洼夸码头

Aokua Pier 洼夸码头, Area#D1

#D1: Aokua Pier 洼夸码头

Aokua Pier

#D2: Libai Lovers’ Beach 里拜情人滩

#D3: Dazu Pier 达祖码头

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Area E

#E: Luyuan Cliff Sightseeing Platform 泸源崖观景台

A cliff offering views of Xiaoluoshui village (小落水).

Area F

#F1: Lige Viewing Point#1 里格

Main viewing point for Lige village and Lige Peninsula.

#F2: Lige Viewing Point#2 里格

Alternative viewing point for Lige village and Lige Peninsula.

#F3: Lige Village 里格

Located on the foot of a hill and by the shoreline, Lige village is certainly one of the most scenic village in Lugu Lake. A short walk from the village is Lige Peninsula. The peninsula is the most photographed spot in Lugu Lake. The best spots to photograph Lige village and its peninsula are the viewing points F1/F2 above. Lige village have a number of eateries, and can be a good place for meal breaks.

#F3: Lige Village 里格

Lige Village 里格 (Area#F3)

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Area G/H/I

#G: Yunnan Lover’s Beach 情人滩

This is the Lover’s Beach on the side of Yunnan. It is extremely popular with Chinese tour groups that arrive by the busloads. The main attraction is apparently a couple of average-looking trees that are by the beach.

In our opinion, this place is grossly over-rated and should be skipped. With throngs of domestic tourist jostling for photo shoots in such a small and mediocre beach, you’re better off giving it a pass. There are tons of spots around Lugu Lake that are way more scenic than this.

Last but not least, this is the only spot in Lugu Lake that we have to pay for parking. The carpark is essentially an open space with no marking whatsoever. However, this didn’t stop touts from demanding a RMB 10 payment.

#H: Luoshui Village Pier 洛水村

Luoshui Village Pier 洛水村

#H: Luoshui Village Pier 洛水村

Luoshui Village Pier 洛水村

#H: Luoshui Village Pier 洛水村

#I: Lujia Wanzi Pier 吕家湾子

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Booking.com

Area J

#J1: Viewing point near Yunnan Visitor Centre

This is not an official viewing point. It is a piece of empty land beside the road that appears to be a previous construction site. Great place to have an elevated view of Lugu Lake.

#J2: Roadside viewing point next to Yunnan Visitor Centre

As of our visit in Nov-2017, the official viewing platform at Yunnan Visitor Centre is under construction. Thus, most visitors end up stopping by the side of the road (next to the visitor centre) to take pictures of the lake. Of the two viewing points (J1/J2), J1 definitely have the better view of Lugu Lake.

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A typical misty morning in Lugu Lake 泸沽湖

How to get to Lugu Lake

Visitors to Lugu Lake typically arrive through Lijiang (Yunnan) or Xichang (Sichuan).

From Lijiang (Yunnan):

Lijiang is 220km southwest of Lugu Lake. It is the most direct way of accessing Lugu Lake. The road from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is well paved, though it is winding in most parts. If self-driving, the journey would typically take 4 hours. There are daily bus services between Lijiang and Lugu Lake. This journey takes between 5-7 hours and cost around RMB 66-80.

Lijiang itself is well-connected by bus to regional destinations like DaLi (大理) and Shangri-La (香格里拉). And is connected to Kunming 昆明 (the capital city of Yunnan province) by bus/train/flights.

From Xichang (Sichuan):

For those from Sichuan, the entry to Lugu Lake is via Xichang which is about 250km away. Similar to the road between Lijiang/Lugu Lake, the route between Xichang and Lugu Lake is well paved and winding at most parts. If self-driving, the journey would typically take 4-5 hours. Daily bus services ply this route and the journey would typically take 7-8 hours.

Xichang is in turn well-connected to Chengdu 成都 (the capital city of Sichuan province) by bus and regular train.